Cite this paper:
LU Jing, TENG Yong, CHI Wanqing, YIN Liping, WANG Daolong. Investigation of wave characteristics in a semi-enclosed bay based on SWAN model validated with buoys and ADPobserved currents[J]. HaiyangYuHuZhao, 2019, 37(2): 434-447

Investigation of wave characteristics in a semi-enclosed bay based on SWAN model validated with buoys and ADPobserved currents

LU Jing1,2, TENG Yong1,2, CHI Wanqing1, YIN Liping1,2, WANG Daolong1,2
1 First Institute of Oceanography, MNR, Qingdao 266061, China;
2 Laboratory for Regional Oceanography and Numerical Modeling, Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology, Qingdao 266237, China
Abstract:
In this study, the simulating waves nearshore (SWAN) model with a locally refined curvilinear grid system was constructed to simulate waves in Jervis Bay and the neighbouring ocean of Australia, with the aim of examining the wave characteristics in an area with special topography and practical importance. This model was verified by field observations from buoys and acoustic Doppler profilers (ADPs). The model precisions were validated for both wind-generated waves and open-ocean swells. We present an approach with which to convert ADP-observed current data from near the bottom into the significant wave height. Our approach is deduced from the Fourier transform technique and the linear wave theory. The results illustrate that the location of the bay entrance is important because it allows the swells in the dominant direction to propagate into the bay despite the narrowness of the bay entrance. The wave period Tp is also strongly related to the wave direction in the semi-enclosed bay. The Tp is great enough along the entire propagating direction from the bay entrance to the top of the bay, and the largest Tp appears along the north-west coast, which is the end tip of the swells' propagation.
Key words:    wave|simulating waves nearshore (SWAN)|acoustic Doppler profilers (ADPs)|buoy|swell|semi-enclosed bay   
Received: 2018-02-01   Revised: 2018-03-27
Tools
PDF (4494 KB) Free
Print this page
Add to favorites
Email this article to others
Authors
Articles by LU Jing
Articles by TENG Yong
Articles by CHI Wanqing
Articles by YIN Liping
Articles by WANG Daolong
References:
Booij N R, Ris R C, Holthuijsen L H. 1999. A third-generation wave model for coastal regions:1. Model description and validation. Journal of Geophysical Research:Oceans, 104(C4):7 649-7 666.
Chen P, Yin Q H, Huang P. 2015a. Effect of non-Gaussian properties of the sea surface on the low-incidence radar backscatter and its inversion in terms of wave spectra by an ocean wave spectrometer. Chinese Journal of Oceanology and Limnology, 33(5):1 142-1 156.
Chen Z B, Zhang B, He Y J, Qiu Z F, Perrie W. 2015b. A new modulation transfer function for ocean wave spectra retrieval from X-band marine radar imagery. Chinese Journal of Oceanology and Limnology, 33(5):1 132-1 141.
Churchill J H, Plueddemann A J, Faluotico S M. 2006. Extracting Wind Sea and Swell from Directional Wave Spectra Derived from a Bottom-Mounted ADCP. WHOI-2006-13, https://doi.org/10.1575/1912/1372.
Komen G J, Hasselmann K, Hasselmann K. 1984. On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 14(8):1 271-1 285.
Mellor G. 2013. Pressure-slope momentum transfer in ocean surface boundary layers coupled with gravity waves.Journal of Physical Oceanography, 43(10):2 173-2 184.
Pallares E, Sánchez-Arcilla A, Espino M. 2014. Wave energy balance in wave models (SWAN) for semi-enclosed domains-application to the Catalan coast. Continental Shelf Research, 87:41-53.
Pinkel R, Smith J A. 1987. Open ocean surface wave measurement using Doppler sonar. Journal of Geophysical Research:Oceans, 92(C12):12 967-12 973.
Rorbaek K, Andersen H. 2002. Evaluation of wave measurements with an acoustic Doppler current profiler.In:OCEANS 2000 MTS/IEEE Conference and Exhibition. IEEE, Providence, RI, USA. 2:1 181-1 187.
Siadatmousavi S M, Allahdadi M N, Chen Q, Jose F, Roberts H H. 2012. Simulation of wave damping during a cold front over the muddy Atchafalaya shelf. Continental Shelf Research, 47:165-177.
Siadatmousavi S M, Jose F. 2015. Winter storm-induced hydrodynamics and morphological response of a shallow transgressive shoal complex:northern Gulf of Mexico.Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 154:58-68.
Signell R P, Carniel S, Cavaleri L, Chiggiato J, Doyle J D, Pullen J, Sclavo M. 2005. Assessment of wind quality for oceanographic modelling in semi-enclosed basins.Journal of Marine Systems, 53(1-4):217-233.
Strong B, Brumley B, Terray E A, Stone G W. 2000. The performance of ADCP-derived directional wave spectra and comparison with other independent measurements.In:OCEANS 2000 MTS/IEEE Conference and Exhibition. IEEE, Providence, RI, USA. 2:1 195-1 203.
SWAN Team. 2014. Scientific and Technical Documentation.SWAN cycle Ⅲ version 41.01. Delft University of Technology, Delft, the Netherlands. 126pp.
Wright L D. 1976 Nearshore wave-power dissipation and the coastal energy regime of the Sydney-Jervis Bay region, New South Wales:a comparison. Australian Journal of Marine and Freshwater Research, 27(4):633-640.